How to Choose a Glycolic Acid Skin Care Product

Glycolic acid skin care products and other products containing AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) are becoming increasingly popular as skin rejuvenation treatments. AHA have a long history of use as skin treatments and exfoliating agents and can be found today in a wide variety of products including toners, moisturisers, cleansers and masks.

They are found naturally in milk and fruit and are particularly valuable in skin care as they are very small molecules that can penetrate the upper layers of the skin to the layer beneath. They then destroy the bonds holding dead cells in place so that the dead cells can be easily removed leaving the skin smoother and with less lines and wrinkles.

In addition to acting as an exfoliating agent glycolic acid is thought to also stimulate the production of elastin and collagen. Elastin is important to ensure the skin remains elastic and collagen supports the skin thus preventing lines and wrinkles. They can improve the appearance of skin damaged by the sun and improve roughness.

The effect is not instant however as to get the full benefit of glycolic acid, and other AHA's they need to be used for up to six months. Glycolic acid skin care products usually have the glycolic acid concentrations of between 5% and 8%. Preparations should never be used with a concentration over 10% as this is considered too corrosive to the skin.

AHA Guidelines from the FDA

The FDA published guidelines for the use of glycolic acid and other products containing AHA's in 1997 to ensure their safe use. The guidelines are as follows.

• The concentration of the AHA must be less than 10%


• The pH must be above 3.5


• The product must contain a sunscreen or there must be a warning on the packaging to inform people that a sunscreen must be used.
  

Which Glycolic Acid Product Should I choose?

• Choose a glycolic acid product for exfoliating and other skin care products that do not contain glycolic acid or other AHA's. Use of glycolic acid in more than one product could lead to irritation.


• Glycolic acid skin care products should have between 5% and 8% of the acid. Less than this will make the product ineffective, more can have a too corrosive effects on the skin.


• If a product does not have the concentration on the label check the order. if it is second or third it is probably of the correct concentration.


• Ideally a glycolic acid product would have a sunscreen incorporated. At present this is not possible as sunscreens are not stable at the low pH of these products. Always use a high factor sunscreen after using a glycolic acid skin care product or other AHA containing product.