Glycolic acid and AHA - Some Information
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which are naturally occurring acids that are found in milk and fuit and are often used in glycolic acid skin care products. They have a long tradition of use for softening, moisturising and exfoliating the skin. Some other examples of alpha hydroxy acids are lactic acid and tartaric acid. Salicylic acid is a similar chemical compound called a beta hydroxy acid. Glycolic acid skin care products are the most common over the counter preparations that contain AHA's.How Do Glycolic Acid Skin Care Products Work?
Glycolic acid is extracted from sugar cane and is the smallest of the AHA's. This single chain molecule can easily penetrate the top layer of the skin going underneath the damaged layer where it loosens the bonds holding dead cells to the skin. This allows the dead cells to be easily removed leaving a smoother skin and a youthful appearance. Glycolic acid skin care preparations are sold as creams or gels intended to be used for exfoliating. Glycolic acid is corrosive so is often packaged with a complete skin care kit including neutralisers and moisturisers to counter this. It is a common ingredient in skin care products marketed as anti-aging or for the treatment of acne.Glycolic Acid Peels
Glycolic acid is also used in a more drastic treatment, a chemical peel. These treatments use a chemical solution to cause the skin to blister and peel off leaving smoother skin with fewer wrinkles. You can buy a glycolic acid chemical peel OTC but it is always best to consult a medical health care practitioner before using one at home. AHA peels including glycolic acid peels are the mildest peels available and are used to remove fine lines, dark pigmentation and dry areas. They can also be used to help control acne and to improve sun damaged skin's texture.Side Effects of Chemical Peels
Although AHA chemical peels are the mildest that are available they do have some side effects and anyone contemplating using one should be aware of them. they may cause skin redness, stinging, dryness and some irritation. All of these side effects are temporary and should improve within a day or two.Caution
If you are using a retinol or Retin-A or similar products the effect of an AHA peel can be stronger so take care and inform your practitioner.
Types of Glycolic Acid Skin Care Products
There are a wide range of glycolic acid skin care products for both the face and the body. Glycolic acid is used in anti aging skin care products as well as lightening products and acne remedies.
Glycolic acid anti aging products
Many products marketed as anti aging contain glycolic acid as well as other ingredients including retinol and retinyl palmitate. Together they are effective at reducing the number and depth of lines and wrinkles on the face and promote a healthy younger looking skin. If the product you use contains retinol or retinol derivatives either use at night only or be sure to use sunscreen if you use them in the day. Some skin may be too sensitive to use a product with both retinol and glycolic acid. If you have more redness or irritation that lasts more than a day or two stop using the product and replace with one with one ingredient only.
Glycolic acid skin lightening products
These products can be purchased in liquid or gel form and many contain other ingredients for lightening in addition to the glycolic acid. Some ingredients used are azelaic acid, mulberry, hydroquinone, kojic acid and more. These products should not be used all over the face but just in spots where discolouration has occurred due to aging or sun damage to the skin.
Glycolic acid exfoliants
Glycolic acid is an excellent exfoliant as it penetrates the top layer of the skin and breaks the attachments of dead cells so that they can be easily removed to leave smoother, younger looking skin. They can be used two or three times a week.
Glycolic acid eye creams
The glycolic acid concentration in eye creams and lotions is usually lower than in other products as the skin around the eyes is more sensitive that the surrounding areas. Glycolic acid eye creams generally contain other anti aging ingredients, usually retinol. We do not recommend creams that contain collagen and elastin as these cannot be absorbed by the skin (the molecules are too big) so are ineffectual.
Glycolic acid cleansers
Cleansers are available for routine cleaning of the skin and exfoliation and generally contain between 3 and 10% glycolic acid. If you haven't used a glycolic acid cleaner before choose one with a lower concentration and slowly increase the concentration as your skin becomes accustomed to it.
Glycolic acid creams, lotions and serums
Formulated for daily use creams are best for dry to normal skin and lotions for oily or combination skins. They are used to exfoliate the skin and to deep clean the pores. Serums are formulated for oily or combination skins and are lighter in texture.
Glycolic acid masks
These products are formulated with a higher concentration of glycolic acid than the creams and lotions and can be used for intensive, deep cleaning treatments.
Glycolic acid toners
These skin care products are used after cleaning to balance the pH properly. Used before any of the above treatments they can prepare the skin so that the treatment is more effective.
Glycolic acid anti aging products
Many products marketed as anti aging contain glycolic acid as well as other ingredients including retinol and retinyl palmitate. Together they are effective at reducing the number and depth of lines and wrinkles on the face and promote a healthy younger looking skin. If the product you use contains retinol or retinol derivatives either use at night only or be sure to use sunscreen if you use them in the day. Some skin may be too sensitive to use a product with both retinol and glycolic acid. If you have more redness or irritation that lasts more than a day or two stop using the product and replace with one with one ingredient only.Glycolic acid skin lightening products
These products can be purchased in liquid or gel form and many contain other ingredients for lightening in addition to the glycolic acid. Some ingredients used are azelaic acid, mulberry, hydroquinone, kojic acid and more. These products should not be used all over the face but just in spots where discolouration has occurred due to aging or sun damage to the skin.Glycolic acid exfoliants
Glycolic acid is an excellent exfoliant as it penetrates the top layer of the skin and breaks the attachments of dead cells so that they can be easily removed to leave smoother, younger looking skin. They can be used two or three times a week.Glycolic acid eye creams
The glycolic acid concentration in eye creams and lotions is usually lower than in other products as the skin around the eyes is more sensitive that the surrounding areas. Glycolic acid eye creams generally contain other anti aging ingredients, usually retinol. We do not recommend creams that contain collagen and elastin as these cannot be absorbed by the skin (the molecules are too big) so are ineffectual.Glycolic acid cleansers
Cleansers are available for routine cleaning of the skin and exfoliation and generally contain between 3 and 10% glycolic acid. If you haven't used a glycolic acid cleaner before choose one with a lower concentration and slowly increase the concentration as your skin becomes accustomed to it.Glycolic acid creams, lotions and serums
Formulated for daily use creams are best for dry to normal skin and lotions for oily or combination skins. They are used to exfoliate the skin and to deep clean the pores. Serums are formulated for oily or combination skins and are lighter in texture.Glycolic acid masks
These products are formulated with a higher concentration of glycolic acid than the creams and lotions and can be used for intensive, deep cleaning treatments.Glycolic acid toners
These skin care products are used after cleaning to balance the pH properly. Used before any of the above treatments they can prepare the skin so that the treatment is more effective.
Glycolic Acid Skin Care Products - Do They Work?
Alpha hydroxy acids or AHA's are present in many glycolic acid skin care products including anti aging and anti wrinkle treatments as they noticeably improve the appearance of the skin. They are derived from fuits and milk and include lactic acid (from milk) citric acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid (all from fruits). Glycolic acid skin care products are effective as glycolic acid has well known and largely undisputed beneficial effects on the skin. It has been found to improve dry skin, help to reduce the damage caused by the sun and is effective in treating acne scarring.
There is still some mystery as to how exactly glycolic acid works it's miracle. Current thought is that it does three things, reduces inflammation, promotes removal of dead skin and helps to moisturise. Together these help to make the skin look healthy and give it a good color.
Glycolic acid has been shown in many studies to improve the number of fine lines and wrinkles. Some studies suggest that the appearance of fine lines can be markedly improved in a s little as three weeks. Glycolic acid is also very good at improving the appearance of sun damaged skin and this has also been shown in studies. As a moisturiser glycolic acid is superb with some studies showing more than 200% increase in the skins moisture content after applying to the face for three weeks.
As glycolic acid skin care products need to be at a lower pH to be effective they can cause some irritation to sensitive skin. Lowering the concentration will reduce the irritation but also decrease their effectiveness. It is a good idea to use these products under the supervision of a dermatologist who can adjust the concentration individually to suit your skin. The concentration can often be slowly increased for more effective treatment as the skin becomes adapted.
There is still some mystery as to how exactly glycolic acid works it's miracle. Current thought is that it does three things, reduces inflammation, promotes removal of dead skin and helps to moisturise. Together these help to make the skin look healthy and give it a good color.
Glycolic acid has been shown in many studies to improve the number of fine lines and wrinkles. Some studies suggest that the appearance of fine lines can be markedly improved in a s little as three weeks. Glycolic acid is also very good at improving the appearance of sun damaged skin and this has also been shown in studies. As a moisturiser glycolic acid is superb with some studies showing more than 200% increase in the skins moisture content after applying to the face for three weeks.
As glycolic acid skin care products need to be at a lower pH to be effective they can cause some irritation to sensitive skin. Lowering the concentration will reduce the irritation but also decrease their effectiveness. It is a good idea to use these products under the supervision of a dermatologist who can adjust the concentration individually to suit your skin. The concentration can often be slowly increased for more effective treatment as the skin becomes adapted.
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